# How do I plant a bare root tree?
Check out our [planting guide](https://humbleabodenursery.com/planting-instructions/) for more detailed instructions. The main things are: don’t let roots dry out or freeze. Backfill and pack the native soil for good root to soil contact without air pockets. Dig hole large enough for roots to spread out without wrapping back around on themselves.
Optional but suggested: Topdress with compost and mulch. Planting tube or wire fence for protection against browsing and wind is recommended.
# Why should I buy bare root plants? Will they thrive?
As someone who has grown nursery plants for over a decade, I am confident that bare roots are my preferred method for trees and bushes.
There are advantages:
- When dormant, they are more tolerant of transplanting, shipping and handling.
- Less expensive to ship (no pots or soil)
- Easier for nurseries to grow (less water, fertilizer and management).
- Our air pruned trees avoid the downfalls of commericial bare root trees and the cutting of roots.
- We also avoid the avoid the root binding and disease of container growing.
- They transplant at a high success rate.
There are disadvantages:
- Plants have to be dormant as bare root plants. When they flush out they become more delicate to transplanting. They are best planted early spring or late fall.
# What about frost after I plant my tree?
Don't worry! Frost won't kill your dormant bare root plants. They are adapted to tolerate winter when dormant. The need for air and water is low as they are not actively growing. If you can dig the ground, you plant a dormant tree.
# What if I can't plant right away?
Heel plants in until you’re ready. (See our growing guide).
# Where is the best spot to plant?
Site selection is a skill you can learn over time. Learning your landscape, how the sun, wind and water moves through it will guide you on where to plant. I highly recommend hiring a landscaper if you are unfamiliar with planting.
I always recommend over planting following the famous adage: plant a tree for wildlife, one for nature and one for you. I'd rather chop and drop a tree down because I have too many productive trees than to hold my hopes in a couple trees that are perfectly spaced out. I'd plant a persimmon every 3 feet.
If you want to plant just a few nut or fruit trees, select a site with full sun, access to water and where you can keep an eye out.
# How do I start a food forest?
Assuming you have some cleared land, I recommend establishing a food forest, row by row over time.
To establish a simple food forest row with multiple layers of trees and herbaceous plants:
- Start measuring the length of the row you have available on your land
- Prepare the ground by tilling, sheet mulching or building a swale
- Sow cover crop or mulch the area with wood chips
- Determine spacing: Consider how many trees you want to grow and their final height at full maturity, this will help you to determine spacing
- Canopy trees, I recommend 20-25' spacing
- Plant sub-canopy trees (apple, persimmon, pawpaw) between each canopy tree,
- Plant support trees or bushes (poplar, baptisia, mimosa) between canopy and sub-canopy trees. These will be used as chop and drop, cutting back branches to use as mulch and to feed the soil in the root zone.
- Plant bushes (blueberries, tea, Siberian ginseng) where there is space.
- Plant herbaceous plants throughout.
- Fill it in, don't be shy. Plants that grow together, thrive together.
- Between food forest rows, you can leave grass or seed cover crop to mow or flail into the tree beds.